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Dry Dock, Sydney - features both Giaconda and Baarmutha Wines

A Hat in Balmain — and Beechworth on the List

In a city as competitive as Sydney, earning a Chef’s Hat is no small feat. So when The Dry Dock was awarded a coveted One Hat in the 2026 Good Food Guide, it marked more than just a milestone for the venue — it signalled the arrival of something serious in the Inner West dining scene.

Set within a historic pub dating back to 1857, The Dry Dock has evolved into a refined yet welcoming dining room, anchored by a modern European, fire-driven kitchen and an exceptionally deep wine list. That list — more than 470 bottles strong — has already picked up national accolades, including “Best Wine List” at the 2025 Australian Liquor Industry Awards and a top-tier Three Glasses rating. But beyond the scale, it’s the detail that sets it apart.

For those who spend time in the Australian wine world, the presence of Giaconda Chardonnay on any list immediately signals intent. It’s one of the country’s most revered wines — a benchmark for precision, texture and longevity, born just outside Beechworth.

But what makes The Dry Dock particularly compelling is what sits alongside it... Among the heavy hitters and international icons is something far more quietly significant: Baarmutha’s Beechworth Chardonnay. To see these two wines — one a long-established icon, the other a small, thoughtful producer — sharing space on the same list speaks volumes. Not just about quality, but about the philosophy behind the list itself. This isn’t about labels alone; it’s about place, expression and the depth of Beechworth as a region.

Beechworth has long been recognised for its granitic soils, elevation and ability to produce Chardonnay of both power and finesse. Seeing multiple expressions of that place — from Giaconda to Baarmutha — represented on a single, tightly curated list in Sydney is rare.

It reflects a growing appreciation for nuance: that Beechworth is not a single style, but a spectrum. From the intensity and age-worthiness of Giaconda to the more understated, site-driven detail of Baarmutha, the story becomes richer when told side by side.

For vigneron Vinny Webb, the inclusion is quietly significant. To have a wine poured in a newly hatted venue — and one with such a discerning, award-winning list — is more than a placement. It’s recognition. A nod to years spent in the vineyard refining site, farming and fruit, often without fanfare. And in many ways, that feels fitting. Because while The Dry Dock may now carry a Hat, it hasn’t lost its grounding. The same could be said for Baarmutha — thoughtful, unshowy, and deeply connected to place.

The rise of venues like The Dry Dock shows how Australian dining continues to evolve. A historic pub can now house a serious kitchen, a world-class wine list, and a platform for both icons and emerging producers. And for Beechworth — quietly, consistently — it’s another reminder that the region continues to punch well above its weight.

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